We got in late Saturday night. We made it about 100 miles into Colorado and after one grueling day where we almost ran out of water, it was decided that we were ready to come home. Much thanks to my brother Collin who came to pick us up.
I wrote down some journal entries of the last few days that I'll be posting soon.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Friday, September 26, 2008
Bedrock Store, Co.
Colorado. For Sale too, $350k!
As seen in Thelma & Louise!
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
OK ESN:0-7400745
Just checking in! Everything is fine, click the link to see where we are at:
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.3039
Longitude:-108.894
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/24/2008 22:58:23 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.3039,-108.894&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.3039
Longitude:-108.894
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/24/2008 22:58:23 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.3039,-108.894&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
OK ESN:0-7400745
Just checking in! Everything is fine, click the link to see where we are at:
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.3039
Longitude:-108.894
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/24/2008 22:40:36 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.3039,-108.894&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.3039
Longitude:-108.894
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/24/2008 22:40:36 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.3039,-108.894&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
OK ESN:0-7400745
Just checking in! Everything is fine, click the link to see where we are at:
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.3032
Longitude:-109.2737
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/24/2008 01:38:55 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.3032,-109.2737&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.3032
Longitude:-109.2737
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/24/2008 01:38:55 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.3032,-109.2737&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Monday, September 22, 2008
OK ESN:0-7400745
Just checking in! Everything is fine, click the link to see where we are at:
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.5918
Longitude:-109.5679
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/22/2008 19:58:03 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.5918,-109.5679&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.5918
Longitude:-109.5679
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/22/2008 19:58:03 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.5918,-109.5679&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Saturday, September 20, 2008
OK ESN:0-7400745
Just checking in! Everything is fine, click the link to see where we are at:
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.5636
Longitude:-109.5478
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/20/2008 21:44:58 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.5636,-109.5478&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
ESN:0-7400745
Latitude:38.5636
Longitude:-109.5478
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:09/20/2008 21:44:58 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=38.5636,-109.5478&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Friday, September 19, 2008
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Yellowstone - SLC
Today we covered 428 miles, it took a bit over 8 hours to do. Not bad, almost 370 miles more then an avg day on our bikes.
Landon drove our Jetta up from SLC and met us in West Yellowstone. We shared a large pizza and beer in our three queen hotel room. Before long, we were wasted from the days events.
We were out of Montana and into the park by mid-morning. Our goal was to make it home by a reasonable hour, so much time was not spent sight seeing Yellowstone, but we were able to stop at a few hot spots and take some pictures.
The big one:
Pretty colors:
Where we found the above pretty colors:
It's just not the same when you are looking at it from a car, we both wished we were on our bikes:
Wildlife:
We exited Yellostone and quickly came upone one of our favorite places, the Tetons! Sadly, the point and shoot camera dosent quite capture what its really like to stand under these giant mountains:
The rest of the drive, was typical Wyoming. The official trail includes close to 200 miles of scenes like this, but on gravel and dirt roads, not pavement. Glad we skipped this part, to be honest:
We take off in the morning, more updates when we can!
Landon drove our Jetta up from SLC and met us in West Yellowstone. We shared a large pizza and beer in our three queen hotel room. Before long, we were wasted from the days events.
We were out of Montana and into the park by mid-morning. Our goal was to make it home by a reasonable hour, so much time was not spent sight seeing Yellowstone, but we were able to stop at a few hot spots and take some pictures.
The big one:
Pretty colors:
Where we found the above pretty colors:
It's just not the same when you are looking at it from a car, we both wished we were on our bikes:
Wildlife:
We exited Yellostone and quickly came upone one of our favorite places, the Tetons! Sadly, the point and shoot camera dosent quite capture what its really like to stand under these giant mountains:
The rest of the drive, was typical Wyoming. The official trail includes close to 200 miles of scenes like this, but on gravel and dirt roads, not pavement. Glad we skipped this part, to be honest:
We take off in the morning, more updates when we can!
Day 23
Sunday 9/14/08
Madison River Campground - West Yellowstone
Time Traveled: 3 hrs 45 mins
Distance: 39 miles
Food Eaten: coffee w/sugar, oatmeal (5th power), almond, grilled cheese sandwhich w/mustard, onion, tomato, lettuce, pickles, curly fries w/ketchup, veggie pizza, beer, salad, wine
The morning was a bright, beautiful one and we started off strong and bittersweet on our last journey in Montana. It wasn't long before we came across a junction that would give us the opportunity to cross over a few different Continental Divide passes (on road - we abandoned our previous route many miles ago).
It was because we were going to meet our friend Landon in West Yellowstone tonight that we decided to take an easier route that took us up a canyon into a National Earthquake Area. Up along the very full Madison River, we followed the road until we came upon two lakes. The first was Quake Lake, which had been formed more than 50 years ago in a huge earthquake. The second was Hebgen Lake, which is a long, thin expanse of water hosting the Hebgen Dam on the Western end. One of the gates on the dam was broken, resulting in a rapid frenzy of crashes and waves gushing out of the lake and down the canyon.
We realized two days ago that our food supply was getting low and all the convenient trail food to eat on the road had been eaten up. You can imagine our joy when another bike tourist we met told us there was a bar ahead with the typical fare. The cyclist had been on the road for over a month and have traveled all the way from New York! He was making his way all across the country and was headed toward the Northwest region.
I think it would take a lot of guts to take on such an adventure solo like that. Of course his rig was set up much more conducive for a road tour than our setup. He seemed very mild mannered and spoke with a European accent that couldn't quite identify. *side note* This reminds me that the old man we met in the Townsend Campground said he thought I had some kind of European accent. I think he said Norwegian or something. That was quite strange. */side note*
Soon, we found the bar and replenished our calorie deficit. I was mildly amused to find that this bar enjoyed taking Polaroids of people and posting them all over the walls. My amusement level raised by 1% when I saw that about half of the pictures were of women flashing their breasts and men flashing their asses. Those cameras seem to take the most unflattering pictures, making everything seem like its bathed in fluorescent light.
I considered adding my own breasts to the mammary menagerie, but unfortunately no one offered to take the Polaroid. This must be something that takes place when the sun goes down well after Happy Hour (which happens to be the bar's name). Maybe next time.
After we left the bar, it wansn't long before we were out of the canyon on on the main road into our destination city. 8, 7, 6...we counted the mile markers as they slowly approached and passed by. This was the final stretch and conclusion to our Montana Chapter. West Yellowstone is the place. My eyes teared up as we neared the small city and we stopped to take each other's picture in front of the sign at the town's entrance.
Over 650 miles had been pedaled to get to this point. When you work for each mile, then you really feel each and every one. We didn't stick to our original plan, but we still rode through an entire state. I look back at all the places we have been, all the people we have met and every tree we have seen. There have been so many nights in our tent out in all of nature's ferocious meanderings.
The earth had been temperamental with us. She gave us sun, wind, rain and even snow. She's been kind and she's been brutal, and we've loved her all throughout. My heart aches a little, knowing soon we'll be out of all this and back into our car with all the sensory deprivation that goes with it. While touring on bicycle, you are forced to take things at a very slow pace, but with that comes so much more to the traveling experience.
In a car, you are shut off form so much of what this world deals out. You zip through valleys and plains before you can see what they really look like. Detail is lost, as are the smells, sounds and each little climate change that lie within a landscape. I'm convinced that to really know a place, you have to take it slow and you must become dependent on it at some point. You have to inhale the air and breathe the land into your being.
Still, at the end of it all, I am grateful, relieved and so very excited to get in a car and go home. With all the houses I've seen on this trip, and all the many times I've spent the night in a tent, it makes me feel extremely blessed to have the home that we do. I've missed Utah terribly and I've been heartsick for all the people who await our return. My mother has been a nonstop line of support and I can't thank her enough.
I feel so incredibly lucky to have all the friends and family that we do. When you are cut off from the ones you love, then you truly appreciate everything that you come home to. Thank you, Montana, for the wonderful trip. Thank you, Utah, for being home.
Madison River Campground - West Yellowstone
Time Traveled: 3 hrs 45 mins
Distance: 39 miles
Food Eaten: coffee w/sugar, oatmeal (5th power), almond, grilled cheese sandwhich w/mustard, onion, tomato, lettuce, pickles, curly fries w/ketchup, veggie pizza, beer, salad, wine
The morning was a bright, beautiful one and we started off strong and bittersweet on our last journey in Montana. It wasn't long before we came across a junction that would give us the opportunity to cross over a few different Continental Divide passes (on road - we abandoned our previous route many miles ago).
It was because we were going to meet our friend Landon in West Yellowstone tonight that we decided to take an easier route that took us up a canyon into a National Earthquake Area. Up along the very full Madison River, we followed the road until we came upon two lakes. The first was Quake Lake, which had been formed more than 50 years ago in a huge earthquake. The second was Hebgen Lake, which is a long, thin expanse of water hosting the Hebgen Dam on the Western end. One of the gates on the dam was broken, resulting in a rapid frenzy of crashes and waves gushing out of the lake and down the canyon.
We realized two days ago that our food supply was getting low and all the convenient trail food to eat on the road had been eaten up. You can imagine our joy when another bike tourist we met told us there was a bar ahead with the typical fare. The cyclist had been on the road for over a month and have traveled all the way from New York! He was making his way all across the country and was headed toward the Northwest region.
I think it would take a lot of guts to take on such an adventure solo like that. Of course his rig was set up much more conducive for a road tour than our setup. He seemed very mild mannered and spoke with a European accent that couldn't quite identify. *side note* This reminds me that the old man we met in the Townsend Campground said he thought I had some kind of European accent. I think he said Norwegian or something. That was quite strange. */side note*
Soon, we found the bar and replenished our calorie deficit. I was mildly amused to find that this bar enjoyed taking Polaroids of people and posting them all over the walls. My amusement level raised by 1% when I saw that about half of the pictures were of women flashing their breasts and men flashing their asses. Those cameras seem to take the most unflattering pictures, making everything seem like its bathed in fluorescent light.
I considered adding my own breasts to the mammary menagerie, but unfortunately no one offered to take the Polaroid. This must be something that takes place when the sun goes down well after Happy Hour (which happens to be the bar's name). Maybe next time.
After we left the bar, it wansn't long before we were out of the canyon on on the main road into our destination city. 8, 7, 6...we counted the mile markers as they slowly approached and passed by. This was the final stretch and conclusion to our Montana Chapter. West Yellowstone is the place. My eyes teared up as we neared the small city and we stopped to take each other's picture in front of the sign at the town's entrance.
Over 650 miles had been pedaled to get to this point. When you work for each mile, then you really feel each and every one. We didn't stick to our original plan, but we still rode through an entire state. I look back at all the places we have been, all the people we have met and every tree we have seen. There have been so many nights in our tent out in all of nature's ferocious meanderings.
The earth had been temperamental with us. She gave us sun, wind, rain and even snow. She's been kind and she's been brutal, and we've loved her all throughout. My heart aches a little, knowing soon we'll be out of all this and back into our car with all the sensory deprivation that goes with it. While touring on bicycle, you are forced to take things at a very slow pace, but with that comes so much more to the traveling experience.
In a car, you are shut off form so much of what this world deals out. You zip through valleys and plains before you can see what they really look like. Detail is lost, as are the smells, sounds and each little climate change that lie within a landscape. I'm convinced that to really know a place, you have to take it slow and you must become dependent on it at some point. You have to inhale the air and breathe the land into your being.
Still, at the end of it all, I am grateful, relieved and so very excited to get in a car and go home. With all the houses I've seen on this trip, and all the many times I've spent the night in a tent, it makes me feel extremely blessed to have the home that we do. I've missed Utah terribly and I've been heartsick for all the people who await our return. My mother has been a nonstop line of support and I can't thank her enough.
I feel so incredibly lucky to have all the friends and family that we do. When you are cut off from the ones you love, then you truly appreciate everything that you come home to. Thank you, Montana, for the wonderful trip. Thank you, Utah, for being home.
Day 22
Saturday 9/13/08
Ennis - Madison River Campground
Time Traveled: 3 hrs 43 mins
Distance: 38.30 miles
Food Eaten: coffee w/cream & sugar, 1/2 grapefruit, oatmeal w/brown sugar & raisins, a few bites of Joe's cinnamon roll, trail mix, gas station pastry, taco shells w/salsa, tomato soup, brown rice, chai w/sugar
From the arid plains, back into the forest, onward we rode. The transition was almost seamless, moving from one landscape into the next. The ride wasn't too difficult, having a few hills and our bodies finally were conditioned enough to ride over them at a respectable pace.
Two rather bland campgrounds were passed before we arrived at our destination. The moment we rode into the campground I was glad we passed them up. This was one of the most beautiful campsites we have had the opportunity to make into our temporary home in on this trip.
Waves of comfort and relief washed over me when I saw that we'd be camping under tall pines and right next to a babbling river. We ate, built a fire from the abundance of dry wood around camp, and went to bed.
Ennis - Madison River Campground
Time Traveled: 3 hrs 43 mins
Distance: 38.30 miles
Food Eaten: coffee w/cream & sugar, 1/2 grapefruit, oatmeal w/brown sugar & raisins, a few bites of Joe's cinnamon roll, trail mix, gas station pastry, taco shells w/salsa, tomato soup, brown rice, chai w/sugar
From the arid plains, back into the forest, onward we rode. The transition was almost seamless, moving from one landscape into the next. The ride wasn't too difficult, having a few hills and our bodies finally were conditioned enough to ride over them at a respectable pace.
Two rather bland campgrounds were passed before we arrived at our destination. The moment we rode into the campground I was glad we passed them up. This was one of the most beautiful campsites we have had the opportunity to make into our temporary home in on this trip.
Waves of comfort and relief washed over me when I saw that we'd be camping under tall pines and right next to a babbling river. We ate, built a fire from the abundance of dry wood around camp, and went to bed.
Day 21
Friday 9/12/08
Norris - Ennis
Time Traveled: 2 hrs 15 mins
Distance: 16.65 miles
Food Eaten: coffee w/sugar & cream, shortbread cookies, Probar, fried salmon filets, tartar sau e, salad, coleslaw, a few French fries, fish sandwich, salad, bread, blackberry pie, orange
This morning was filled with pain and misery, brought on completely by ourselves. Beware of small town bartenders and the people that frequent such bars. People watching can get much too fun and interesting that it can be very easy to drink a few too many just to prolong the experience.
Well, we are glad that we were able to have been a part of such an occasion, but we were sure paying for it in the morning. Not much sleep was had in the cramped space with semi trucks driving screaming past us all night long. I crawled out of the BBQ shed at the break of dawn and slowly dragged myself across the street to the infamous gas station. My body ached from exersion and a sleepless night. My head and stomach punished me for my over consumption. I had only one goal and that was to use the restroom. Once that was taken care of I could move on to the next very important task of finding food and bringing it to Joe.
My poor husband had it much worse than I. He spent the early hours throwing up under Carmen's biggest grill. I needed to find him something that would be easy on his stomach. I wandered around the tiny shop as a swarm of locals crowded the coffee station, laughing and joking together.
The gas station is the town hangout in the morning, and all of the 32 people that populate Norris ends up there at some point before noon. I must have been some good entertainment for them as I staggered around in my bicycle clothing and long knee socks, groping snacked goods and peering at the nutritional info. My hair was an attractive display of something similar to a birds' nest and I smelled like Carmen's ashtray that she filled to the brim last night.
When I made my way to the coffee station, an old man started to joke around with me, saying he hoped there was some left for me. I reciprocated with him as best as I could, paid for my stuff and got the hell out of there. Joe and I were more than ready to leave Norris back to the people who loved it the most. You guys enjoy your small town life and that's fine. Keep it. We're getting the fuck out, and not a moment too soon.
The bike ride away from our sleep (or sleepless) site wasn't much more inviting. We faced strong, cold headwind again, but this time we had to climb a scary pass with not much of a shoulder. At least we were out riding, and we both felt much better because of it.
Our climb was long and painful to us poor, tired, hungover saps. As always, when we reached the summit, we were filled with happiness, relief and elation. The next stretch into McAllister was all downhill. We stopped at the only place available for food, then moved on to Ennis, which was a short distance away.
It was decided that after a sleepless night in a storage room, we deserved a nice motel with a bed. The Sportsman's Lodge was our pick and we relished our stay in our little cabin. Dinner was found at the connecting restaurant and our waiter told us of his own vagabonding ways. We grabbed a slice of heaven in the form of blackberry pie and took it back to our room to enjoy on our bed.
The night was a wonderful relief and I fell asleep watching an old movie on TCM. It's the only channel I can stand watching as it doesn't have commercials and I'm a total pushover for old movies.
Norris - Ennis
Time Traveled: 2 hrs 15 mins
Distance: 16.65 miles
Food Eaten: coffee w/sugar & cream, shortbread cookies, Probar, fried salmon filets, tartar sau e, salad, coleslaw, a few French fries, fish sandwich, salad, bread, blackberry pie, orange
This morning was filled with pain and misery, brought on completely by ourselves. Beware of small town bartenders and the people that frequent such bars. People watching can get much too fun and interesting that it can be very easy to drink a few too many just to prolong the experience.
Well, we are glad that we were able to have been a part of such an occasion, but we were sure paying for it in the morning. Not much sleep was had in the cramped space with semi trucks driving screaming past us all night long. I crawled out of the BBQ shed at the break of dawn and slowly dragged myself across the street to the infamous gas station. My body ached from exersion and a sleepless night. My head and stomach punished me for my over consumption. I had only one goal and that was to use the restroom. Once that was taken care of I could move on to the next very important task of finding food and bringing it to Joe.
My poor husband had it much worse than I. He spent the early hours throwing up under Carmen's biggest grill. I needed to find him something that would be easy on his stomach. I wandered around the tiny shop as a swarm of locals crowded the coffee station, laughing and joking together.
The gas station is the town hangout in the morning, and all of the 32 people that populate Norris ends up there at some point before noon. I must have been some good entertainment for them as I staggered around in my bicycle clothing and long knee socks, groping snacked goods and peering at the nutritional info. My hair was an attractive display of something similar to a birds' nest and I smelled like Carmen's ashtray that she filled to the brim last night.
When I made my way to the coffee station, an old man started to joke around with me, saying he hoped there was some left for me. I reciprocated with him as best as I could, paid for my stuff and got the hell out of there. Joe and I were more than ready to leave Norris back to the people who loved it the most. You guys enjoy your small town life and that's fine. Keep it. We're getting the fuck out, and not a moment too soon.
The bike ride away from our sleep (or sleepless) site wasn't much more inviting. We faced strong, cold headwind again, but this time we had to climb a scary pass with not much of a shoulder. At least we were out riding, and we both felt much better because of it.
Our climb was long and painful to us poor, tired, hungover saps. As always, when we reached the summit, we were filled with happiness, relief and elation. The next stretch into McAllister was all downhill. We stopped at the only place available for food, then moved on to Ennis, which was a short distance away.
It was decided that after a sleepless night in a storage room, we deserved a nice motel with a bed. The Sportsman's Lodge was our pick and we relished our stay in our little cabin. Dinner was found at the connecting restaurant and our waiter told us of his own vagabonding ways. We grabbed a slice of heaven in the form of blackberry pie and took it back to our room to enjoy on our bed.
The night was a wonderful relief and I fell asleep watching an old movie on TCM. It's the only channel I can stand watching as it doesn't have commercials and I'm a total pushover for old movies.
Day 20
Thursday 9/11/08
Harrison - Norris
Time Traveled: 1 hr 52 mins
Distance: 17 miles
Food Eaten: super oatmeal (5th power), coffee w/sugar & cream, fish sandwich, salad, beer, 1/2 quesadilla, cowboy caviar (black beans, black eyed peas, corn, onion. red bell pepper, chipotle sauce) 1/2 muffin
Today was opposite from yesterday in terms of weather. Bright, sunny and warm, we quickly made the short distance to Norris in search of food, hot springs and a place to stay. We went to the gas station first and talked to the lady working there. She was a bit of a gypsy, always moving her family from one place to the next.
From there, we went to Norris Hot Springs and it wasn't quite open, so we sat out, enjoyed the sun, and I played guitar while we waited. We were let in for free when they opened because we rode our bike there!
This is one of the neatest commercialized hot springs we've been to. It's made all of wood and they fill it up daily with fresh water. There are cooling sprinklers and even a small stage where they have live music on a regular basis. They even hosted a bluegrass festival a few week ago, and as we soaked in the warm water, relaxing our tired muscles, the sound of fret and fiddle softly singing though the speakers soothed our minds. Beer, wine and some food options were available as well as a large patio seating area. We talked to several people here, all were impressed with our voyage.
Next, we went to the only restaurant, a Mexican place, in search of food. Unfortunately, it was closed, so we took our last option with Norris Bar. Even though the grill was only open weekends, Carmen the owner made us some delicious cowboy caviar which we quickly devoured. In appreciation of this, we consumed a large amount of beer and she told us we could sleep in her BBQ shed.
Thrilled that we didn't have to ride further in search of a campground, we drank even more beer, which turned out to be a rather poor choice. During the evening, we met Mike, a motorbike rider who lived in Bozeman. The four of us (Carmen included) even went out to check out our future sleeping area in the BBQ shed and we shared a pipe in the process.
After that, Mike left and three younger guys showed up. Carmen brought out a nice, black guitar (she doesn't play), and I strummed around and sang for a bit. Carmen made us all laugh when she attempted her own performance, which turned out to be an original about how she was going to kill her husband. She sassed the three guys around, first flirting with them and then throwing them insults. They all finally left well after closing time.
Joe and I retired into the cramped BBQ shed after many thanks and drunken hugs. Carmen kept telling me she loved my socks. I think it was the last thing she said to me. Maybe I'll send her a pair when we get home.
Harrison - Norris
Time Traveled: 1 hr 52 mins
Distance: 17 miles
Food Eaten: super oatmeal (5th power), coffee w/sugar & cream, fish sandwich, salad, beer, 1/2 quesadilla, cowboy caviar (black beans, black eyed peas, corn, onion. red bell pepper, chipotle sauce) 1/2 muffin
Today was opposite from yesterday in terms of weather. Bright, sunny and warm, we quickly made the short distance to Norris in search of food, hot springs and a place to stay. We went to the gas station first and talked to the lady working there. She was a bit of a gypsy, always moving her family from one place to the next.
From there, we went to Norris Hot Springs and it wasn't quite open, so we sat out, enjoyed the sun, and I played guitar while we waited. We were let in for free when they opened because we rode our bike there!
This is one of the neatest commercialized hot springs we've been to. It's made all of wood and they fill it up daily with fresh water. There are cooling sprinklers and even a small stage where they have live music on a regular basis. They even hosted a bluegrass festival a few week ago, and as we soaked in the warm water, relaxing our tired muscles, the sound of fret and fiddle softly singing though the speakers soothed our minds. Beer, wine and some food options were available as well as a large patio seating area. We talked to several people here, all were impressed with our voyage.
Next, we went to the only restaurant, a Mexican place, in search of food. Unfortunately, it was closed, so we took our last option with Norris Bar. Even though the grill was only open weekends, Carmen the owner made us some delicious cowboy caviar which we quickly devoured. In appreciation of this, we consumed a large amount of beer and she told us we could sleep in her BBQ shed.
Thrilled that we didn't have to ride further in search of a campground, we drank even more beer, which turned out to be a rather poor choice. During the evening, we met Mike, a motorbike rider who lived in Bozeman. The four of us (Carmen included) even went out to check out our future sleeping area in the BBQ shed and we shared a pipe in the process.
After that, Mike left and three younger guys showed up. Carmen brought out a nice, black guitar (she doesn't play), and I strummed around and sang for a bit. Carmen made us all laugh when she attempted her own performance, which turned out to be an original about how she was going to kill her husband. She sassed the three guys around, first flirting with them and then throwing them insults. They all finally left well after closing time.
Joe and I retired into the cramped BBQ shed after many thanks and drunken hugs. Carmen kept telling me she loved my socks. I think it was the last thing she said to me. Maybe I'll send her a pair when we get home.
Day 19
Wednesday 9/10/08
Three Forks - Harrison Lake
Time Traveled: 3 hrs 43 mins
Distance: 29.13 miles
Food Eaten: eggs, hash browns, toast, coffee/cream & sugar, dates, trail mix, Probar, vanilla cappuccino w/hot chocolate, refried black beans, salsa, taco shells, chai w/sugar
This morning we both woke up thinking we were going to have a nice, easy ride into Harrison. We should have known better when we awoke to drizzling rain. The skies were covered in dark, bitter clouds and the air was cold and wet as we pedaled the three miles into Three Forks to eat breakfast.
We took our time eating at the Three Forks Cafe and I made a call to my mother to give her an update. The outdoors did not exactly look inviting and we both were starting to feel homesick. Still, we headed out into the temperamental elements and met with a consistent series of rolling hills.
Upon arriving at the Parker Homestead State Park, it was decided that we needed a break. Joe and I walked around the old, abandoned house that was being eaten away by the hungry Montana plains. Inside, on the bumpy, dirt floors we discovered that there's a reason people dance the cha cha on polished wood surfaces. It was a bit tricky to execute the turns in bike shoes, but still fun anyway.
Continuing on our hilly journey, we met an elderly woman who was ahead of her bicycling tour group (all seniors). Even in the cold rain she was clearly enjoying herself. Of course, her group was supported and they weren't carrying any of their own gear, but perhaps that it the way to go when you get past 60.
The last stretch into Harrison was a long, grueling climb of probably 1500 feet or so. We were crossing our fingers, hoping for services as we rolled into the tiny town and relief set in when we saw that the only store would be open for another hour.
After talking to a few locals, we headed out to our resting point three miles down a rolling gravel road to the tiny Harrison Lake Campground. Cranes, geese and antelope roamed these plains and all throughout the night you could hear the geese honking above as they traveled in search of warmer weather.
In the middle of the night, we were awoken by a pack of coyotes that were chasing water fowl down on the beach. Their wailing cries haunted us as we drifted back into sleep, willing the sun to warm us when the morning comes.
Three Forks - Harrison Lake
Time Traveled: 3 hrs 43 mins
Distance: 29.13 miles
Food Eaten: eggs, hash browns, toast, coffee/cream & sugar, dates, trail mix, Probar, vanilla cappuccino w/hot chocolate, refried black beans, salsa, taco shells, chai w/sugar
This morning we both woke up thinking we were going to have a nice, easy ride into Harrison. We should have known better when we awoke to drizzling rain. The skies were covered in dark, bitter clouds and the air was cold and wet as we pedaled the three miles into Three Forks to eat breakfast.
We took our time eating at the Three Forks Cafe and I made a call to my mother to give her an update. The outdoors did not exactly look inviting and we both were starting to feel homesick. Still, we headed out into the temperamental elements and met with a consistent series of rolling hills.
Upon arriving at the Parker Homestead State Park, it was decided that we needed a break. Joe and I walked around the old, abandoned house that was being eaten away by the hungry Montana plains. Inside, on the bumpy, dirt floors we discovered that there's a reason people dance the cha cha on polished wood surfaces. It was a bit tricky to execute the turns in bike shoes, but still fun anyway.
Continuing on our hilly journey, we met an elderly woman who was ahead of her bicycling tour group (all seniors). Even in the cold rain she was clearly enjoying herself. Of course, her group was supported and they weren't carrying any of their own gear, but perhaps that it the way to go when you get past 60.
The last stretch into Harrison was a long, grueling climb of probably 1500 feet or so. We were crossing our fingers, hoping for services as we rolled into the tiny town and relief set in when we saw that the only store would be open for another hour.
After talking to a few locals, we headed out to our resting point three miles down a rolling gravel road to the tiny Harrison Lake Campground. Cranes, geese and antelope roamed these plains and all throughout the night you could hear the geese honking above as they traveled in search of warmer weather.
In the middle of the night, we were awoken by a pack of coyotes that were chasing water fowl down on the beach. Their wailing cries haunted us as we drifted back into sleep, willing the sun to warm us when the morning comes.
Day 18
Tuesday 9/9/08
Townsend - Three Forks
Food Eaten: coffee w/sugar, super oatmeal (8th power), dates, trail mix, veggie sandwich on honey whole wheat bread, mocha, raspberry turnover, black beans, veggie dinner w/onions, zucchini, potatoes, olive oil
We finally get relief from the wind and rain to get some sunshine and tailwinds. This ride started off very strong for me, but Joe was a bit more sore. About halfway there, we came across a "chemical free" farm with produce for sale. It was was at the home of a very sweet couple whom we stayed and talked to for a few minutes.
The husband answered all our questions about his farm and what kind of fertilizers he uses (plant based phosphorous) and his wife told us about her daughter who was currently away in the army. She wanted to drive down to Mexico in her car and visit her on the way. She kept telling us how great we looked and that she'd pray for us as we were leaving and we thanked her for it. A few minutes later as we were heading down the highway, we saw their truck pass and the wife raised a victorious fist out of her window for us.
The whole way from Townsend to Three Forks is nothing but wide open farmlands, so we were glad the winds were finally pushing us from behind. Still, as usual, we were getting tired and sore about two thirds of the way in.
Joe told me what kept him going was the teasing signs boasting of a deli and bakery up ahead. Apparently this place is "Montana's Favorite Road Stop". We could see why when we got there. A strip club and adult shop was on one side of the road and a bakery, gas station and motel was on the other.
Our interests only lied within the doors of the bakery and when I got inside, I felt over-stimulated by all the options. I wasn't used to seeing such a colorful and vast array of pastries, bottles of jam and bread after all those miles riding through arid farmland.
We ate and gratefully pulled into the nearby Three Forks Camp, which looked to be a KOA bought out by someone with a name change. Later that night, we used half of our farm fresh produce (which was $1 a pound-we paid $4 total), and made a delicious dinner. Purple potatoes are amazing!
After a much relished shower and some laundry, we sat around our tiny campfire and I played my guitar and sang. When the coals were white, we put it out and retreated into the tent. For some unknown reason, I had a hard time falling asleep, even with earplugs in.
Townsend - Three Forks
Food Eaten: coffee w/sugar, super oatmeal (8th power), dates, trail mix, veggie sandwich on honey whole wheat bread, mocha, raspberry turnover, black beans, veggie dinner w/onions, zucchini, potatoes, olive oil
We finally get relief from the wind and rain to get some sunshine and tailwinds. This ride started off very strong for me, but Joe was a bit more sore. About halfway there, we came across a "chemical free" farm with produce for sale. It was was at the home of a very sweet couple whom we stayed and talked to for a few minutes.
The husband answered all our questions about his farm and what kind of fertilizers he uses (plant based phosphorous) and his wife told us about her daughter who was currently away in the army. She wanted to drive down to Mexico in her car and visit her on the way. She kept telling us how great we looked and that she'd pray for us as we were leaving and we thanked her for it. A few minutes later as we were heading down the highway, we saw their truck pass and the wife raised a victorious fist out of her window for us.
The whole way from Townsend to Three Forks is nothing but wide open farmlands, so we were glad the winds were finally pushing us from behind. Still, as usual, we were getting tired and sore about two thirds of the way in.
Joe told me what kept him going was the teasing signs boasting of a deli and bakery up ahead. Apparently this place is "Montana's Favorite Road Stop". We could see why when we got there. A strip club and adult shop was on one side of the road and a bakery, gas station and motel was on the other.
Our interests only lied within the doors of the bakery and when I got inside, I felt over-stimulated by all the options. I wasn't used to seeing such a colorful and vast array of pastries, bottles of jam and bread after all those miles riding through arid farmland.
We ate and gratefully pulled into the nearby Three Forks Camp, which looked to be a KOA bought out by someone with a name change. Later that night, we used half of our farm fresh produce (which was $1 a pound-we paid $4 total), and made a delicious dinner. Purple potatoes are amazing!
After a much relished shower and some laundry, we sat around our tiny campfire and I played my guitar and sang. When the coals were white, we put it out and retreated into the tent. For some unknown reason, I had a hard time falling asleep, even with earplugs in.
Day 17
Monday 9/8/08
Helena - Townsend
Time Traveled: 4 hrs 15 mins
Distance: 38.66 miles
Food Eaten: mocha, raspberry white chocolate chip scone, cookie, chocolate covered cranberries, apple, dates, pluot, trail mix, huckleberry freezie, apple juice, beer, fried halibut, onion rings, tarter sauce & ketchup
The sun was warm and shining when we rolled out of Helena on the very uninspiring Highway 287, but we were in no way planning on having such a problem with headwinds. What would have normally taken us around 2 hours took us over 3 1/2. At one point we were pedaling to get down a steep downhill.
Eventually, we pushed through into Townsend. Luckily for us the campground was at the very beginning of town and it was also free with no camp host. Unfortunately that meant it was up to us to find our own fire wood so we could start a fire for the night will surely be a cold one.
After we ate, we went to the grocery store in search of wood. The check out lady said that they didn't have any, then immediately wen on a campaign to find us some. All her efforts were fruitless however, and we left the store empty handed.
A woman who appeared to be an elderly, LDS missionary followed us out and told us to follow her two blocks down the road. Soon we arrived at a man's house who had a wood stove and a large supply of wood. He cut some up for us and gave it to us for free.
The wood was piled up in Joe's trailer and taken back to camp. As I was walking to the bathroom I walked past an older couple truck top camper. The elderly man stuck his head out of the door and with a twinkling smile let me know that supper was ready. I told him that we just barely ate and then we started talking for quite a long time before Joe wondered where I was and came over.
The couple seemed to be professional travelers from Arizona. They were probably in their early 60's and as sweet and cute as can be. The man came over later when we had a fire and chatted with us for a very long time. His face wore a perpetual smile and I felt as though he would never loose his zest and love for life.
Once again, we forgot to get names or a picture from this sweet couple. We really need to work on that.
Helena - Townsend
Time Traveled: 4 hrs 15 mins
Distance: 38.66 miles
Food Eaten: mocha, raspberry white chocolate chip scone, cookie, chocolate covered cranberries, apple, dates, pluot, trail mix, huckleberry freezie, apple juice, beer, fried halibut, onion rings, tarter sauce & ketchup
The sun was warm and shining when we rolled out of Helena on the very uninspiring Highway 287, but we were in no way planning on having such a problem with headwinds. What would have normally taken us around 2 hours took us over 3 1/2. At one point we were pedaling to get down a steep downhill.
Eventually, we pushed through into Townsend. Luckily for us the campground was at the very beginning of town and it was also free with no camp host. Unfortunately that meant it was up to us to find our own fire wood so we could start a fire for the night will surely be a cold one.
After we ate, we went to the grocery store in search of wood. The check out lady said that they didn't have any, then immediately wen on a campaign to find us some. All her efforts were fruitless however, and we left the store empty handed.
A woman who appeared to be an elderly, LDS missionary followed us out and told us to follow her two blocks down the road. Soon we arrived at a man's house who had a wood stove and a large supply of wood. He cut some up for us and gave it to us for free.
The wood was piled up in Joe's trailer and taken back to camp. As I was walking to the bathroom I walked past an older couple truck top camper. The elderly man stuck his head out of the door and with a twinkling smile let me know that supper was ready. I told him that we just barely ate and then we started talking for quite a long time before Joe wondered where I was and came over.
The couple seemed to be professional travelers from Arizona. They were probably in their early 60's and as sweet and cute as can be. The man came over later when we had a fire and chatted with us for a very long time. His face wore a perpetual smile and I felt as though he would never loose his zest and love for life.
Once again, we forgot to get names or a picture from this sweet couple. We really need to work on that.
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